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	<title>Comments for SteveKamerman.com</title>
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	<link>http://www.stevekamerman.com</link>
	<description>Blog about pretty much everything</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Thu, 09 Feb 2012 18:21:05 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Comment on About by New mobile design for Stan Fairbank's website &#124; Stan Fairbank</title>
		<link>http://www.stevekamerman.com/about/comment-page-1/#comment-14747</link>
		<dc:creator>New mobile design for Stan Fairbank's website &#124; Stan Fairbank</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Feb 2012 18:21:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.stevekamerman.com/?page_id=2#comment-14747</guid>
		<description>[...] the brainchild of Steve Kamerman, a techie jack-of-all-trades who wanted to address the problems developers have in dealing with the endlessly changing landscape [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] the brainchild of Steve Kamerman, a techie jack-of-all-trades who wanted to address the problems developers have in dealing with the endlessly changing landscape [...]</p>
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		<title>Comment on About by Hello world! &#124; Stan Fairbank</title>
		<link>http://www.stevekamerman.com/about/comment-page-1/#comment-14744</link>
		<dc:creator>Hello world! &#124; Stan Fairbank</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Feb 2012 18:06:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.stevekamerman.com/?page_id=2#comment-14744</guid>
		<description>[...] the brainchild of Steve Kamerman, a techie jack-of-all-trades who wanted to address the problems developers have in dealing with the endlessly changing landscape [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] the brainchild of Steve Kamerman, a techie jack-of-all-trades who wanted to address the problems developers have in dealing with the endlessly changing landscape [...]</p>
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		<title>Comment on Deleting tons of files in Linux (Argument list too long) by Compira</title>
		<link>http://www.stevekamerman.com/2008/03/deleting-tons-of-files-in-linux-argument-list-too-long/comment-page-1/#comment-14518</link>
		<dc:creator>Compira</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 04 Feb 2012 15:05:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.teratechnologies.net/stevekamerman/index.php?entry=entry080326-163521#comment-14518</guid>
		<description>Thanks, I now will delete so many files, that I can&#039;t even count, cos server freezes ^^</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks, I now will delete so many files, that I can&#8217;t even count, cos server freezes ^^</p>
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		<title>Comment on Understanding a Mouse Scroll Wheel by Steve</title>
		<link>http://www.stevekamerman.com/2010/12/understanding-a-mouse-scroll-wheel/comment-page-1/#comment-13354</link>
		<dc:creator>Steve</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 11 Jan 2012 17:36:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.stevekamerman.com/?p=243#comment-13354</guid>
		<description>Hi Craig - thanks!

You should not drive high current or really noisy devices directly from the Arduino because it will destroy the CPU (the digital outputs are actually coming straight from the CPU itself).  Examples: LEDs, traditional light bulbs, motors (steppers are exceptionally noisy), electromagnets, etc.

The solution is to use a &quot;driver&quot; circuit that takes power directly from your power source (bypassing the Arduino circuits), and using the Arduino digital outputs, drives the device.  In your case you need a stepper motor driver (unless there&#039;s already one built onto your stepper) - something like this should work: http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10267.  I haven&#039;t used steppers (I&#039;m a newb as well), but it looks like the input for this driver uses Pulse Width Modulation (PWM), which means the digital signal is pulsing between high (probably +5VDC) and low (much lower, maybe +1VDC) a variable rate, and by adjusting this rate, you adjust the position of the stepper motor.  A seemingly complete example is here: http://bildr.org/2011/06/easydriver/.

The rotary encoder can certainly be salvaged from an existing device, like a mouse - buy you&#039;ll need to figure out the right voltage and stuff for it by hand (unless you can plug it in to your computer and test it).  If you have to test it by hand, you should take it apart and see if you can touch the IR LED.  Since it&#039;s IR you can&#039;t really tell if it&#039;s on (unless you have a nightvision mode video camera or something).  If you can see visible light coming from it, of if it&#039;s generating any heat, turn it off immediately - there&#039;s too much power.  Either the voltage is too high or you need a current-limiter (low Ohm resistor) to keep the LED from pulling too much current.

Anyway, feel free to give me a shout if you need a hand figuring it out.

Thanks,

Steve</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Craig &#8211; thanks!</p>
<p>You should not drive high current or really noisy devices directly from the Arduino because it will destroy the CPU (the digital outputs are actually coming straight from the CPU itself).  Examples: LEDs, traditional light bulbs, motors (steppers are exceptionally noisy), electromagnets, etc.</p>
<p>The solution is to use a &#8220;driver&#8221; circuit that takes power directly from your power source (bypassing the Arduino circuits), and using the Arduino digital outputs, drives the device.  In your case you need a stepper motor driver (unless there&#8217;s already one built onto your stepper) &#8211; something like this should work: <a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10267" rel="nofollow">http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10267</a>.  I haven&#8217;t used steppers (I&#8217;m a newb as well), but it looks like the input for this driver uses Pulse Width Modulation (PWM), which means the digital signal is pulsing between high (probably +5VDC) and low (much lower, maybe +1VDC) a variable rate, and by adjusting this rate, you adjust the position of the stepper motor.  A seemingly complete example is here: <a href="http://bildr.org/2011/06/easydriver/" rel="nofollow">http://bildr.org/2011/06/easydriver/</a>.</p>
<p>The rotary encoder can certainly be salvaged from an existing device, like a mouse &#8211; buy you&#8217;ll need to figure out the right voltage and stuff for it by hand (unless you can plug it in to your computer and test it).  If you have to test it by hand, you should take it apart and see if you can touch the IR LED.  Since it&#8217;s IR you can&#8217;t really tell if it&#8217;s on (unless you have a nightvision mode video camera or something).  If you can see visible light coming from it, of if it&#8217;s generating any heat, turn it off immediately &#8211; there&#8217;s too much power.  Either the voltage is too high or you need a current-limiter (low Ohm resistor) to keep the LED from pulling too much current.</p>
<p>Anyway, feel free to give me a shout if you need a hand figuring it out.</p>
<p>Thanks,</p>
<p>Steve</p>
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		<title>Comment on Understanding a Mouse Scroll Wheel by Craig</title>
		<link>http://www.stevekamerman.com/2010/12/understanding-a-mouse-scroll-wheel/comment-page-1/#comment-13351</link>
		<dc:creator>Craig</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 11 Jan 2012 17:01:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.stevekamerman.com/?p=243#comment-13351</guid>
		<description>HI Steve,

I&#039;m loving your blog!

I am a complete Electronics Newb, but I have always been fascinated.  I have a little home project on the go at the moment and basically need to control a stepper motor with a rotary encoder.  Something like your mouse scroll wheel would be perfect.  I want to be able to mirror the revolutions of the encoder on the motor i.e. 1 turn of the encoder = 1 turn of the motor (it is going to remotly control a swivelling platform).

In order to make the prototype I am trying to acquire the components that I will need.  I have ordered an Arduino Uno and breadboard, some resistors and a stepper motor - I was hoping to use an old microsoft mouse like in your example. 

Is there anything I am missing?

Sorry for such a helpless message!

thanks in advance, 

Craig.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>HI Steve,</p>
<p>I&#8217;m loving your blog!</p>
<p>I am a complete Electronics Newb, but I have always been fascinated.  I have a little home project on the go at the moment and basically need to control a stepper motor with a rotary encoder.  Something like your mouse scroll wheel would be perfect.  I want to be able to mirror the revolutions of the encoder on the motor i.e. 1 turn of the encoder = 1 turn of the motor (it is going to remotly control a swivelling platform).</p>
<p>In order to make the prototype I am trying to acquire the components that I will need.  I have ordered an Arduino Uno and breadboard, some resistors and a stepper motor &#8211; I was hoping to use an old microsoft mouse like in your example. </p>
<p>Is there anything I am missing?</p>
<p>Sorry for such a helpless message!</p>
<p>thanks in advance, </p>
<p>Craig.</p>
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		<title>Comment on About by Steve</title>
		<link>http://www.stevekamerman.com/about/comment-page-1/#comment-12986</link>
		<dc:creator>Steve</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 06 Jan 2012 01:56:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.stevekamerman.com/?page_id=2#comment-12986</guid>
		<description>I agree that a digital volume control will probably not give you the quality of a good potentiometer.  I don&#039;t have much experience in high-quality audio control, but I would guess your best option is to get a motorized pot like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.potentiometers.com/alps_motorized_rotary.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Alps RK168 Series&lt;/a&gt; with multiple resistive elements.  I imagine you will need at least one element per audio channel (2 for stereo, maybe 3 if you also have a dedicated mono-bass channel), plus one extra element that you can use to check the voltage level from your reference voltage and display a volume level number.  You&#039;d need to use something like the Arduino that I&#039;m using and create some mapping between the resistance of the pot and a number, so when the volume is all the way down, the pot voltage is 0 (you&#039;ll need a pull-down resistor, maybe 100K to pull it down to GND), and screen displays 0 and when it&#039;s all the way up, the resistance is 0 and voltage is +5VDC (or whatever your reference voltage is), and the screen displays 100 (or MAX or whatever you want).  To make an LCD display work, you should get a controller like the Arduino, and get a serial LCD display, then you just connect the power and the serial wires to the controller; download the LCD&#039;s Arduino library, and in the Arduino code, you&#039;ll use commands like &lt;code&gt;Serial.Send(&quot;Volume Level: 37&quot;);&lt;/code&gt; based on your pot check.  For a 7-segment LED display like I&#039;m using, you&#039;ll need a serial to parallel LED driver since there are more LEDs than output pins on the Arduino, then you can get an Arduino driver and send it commands similar to that of the LCD display.  I buy almost everything from SparkFun Electronics because they have a wealth of information about every product (here&#039;s a serial LED Driver, for example: http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9622).</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I agree that a digital volume control will probably not give you the quality of a good potentiometer.  I don&#8217;t have much experience in high-quality audio control, but I would guess your best option is to get a motorized pot like the <a href="http://www.potentiometers.com/alps_motorized_rotary.cfm" rel="nofollow">Alps RK168 Series</a> with multiple resistive elements.  I imagine you will need at least one element per audio channel (2 for stereo, maybe 3 if you also have a dedicated mono-bass channel), plus one extra element that you can use to check the voltage level from your reference voltage and display a volume level number.  You&#8217;d need to use something like the Arduino that I&#8217;m using and create some mapping between the resistance of the pot and a number, so when the volume is all the way down, the pot voltage is 0 (you&#8217;ll need a pull-down resistor, maybe 100K to pull it down to GND), and screen displays 0 and when it&#8217;s all the way up, the resistance is 0 and voltage is +5VDC (or whatever your reference voltage is), and the screen displays 100 (or MAX or whatever you want).  To make an LCD display work, you should get a controller like the Arduino, and get a serial LCD display, then you just connect the power and the serial wires to the controller; download the LCD&#8217;s Arduino library, and in the Arduino code, you&#8217;ll use commands like</p>
<div class="codecolorer-container text geshi" style="overflow:auto;white-space:nowrap;border:1px solid #9F9F9F;width:435px;"><div class="text codecolorer" style="padding:5px;font:normal 12px/1.4em Monaco, Lucida Console, monospace;white-space:nowrap">Serial.Send(&quot;Volume Level: 37&quot;);</div></div>
<p>based on your pot check.  For a 7-segment LED display like I&#8217;m using, you&#8217;ll need a serial to parallel LED driver since there are more LEDs than output pins on the Arduino, then you can get an Arduino driver and send it commands similar to that of the LCD display.  I buy almost everything from SparkFun Electronics because they have a wealth of information about every product (here&#8217;s a serial LED Driver, for example: <a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9622)" rel="nofollow">http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9622)</a>.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>Comment on About by Steve</title>
		<link>http://www.stevekamerman.com/about/comment-page-1/#comment-12983</link>
		<dc:creator>Steve</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 06 Jan 2012 01:37:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.stevekamerman.com/?page_id=2#comment-12983</guid>
		<description>I have heard this also from someone else, unfortunately, I presently have no extra cycles to correct the problem.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have heard this also from someone else, unfortunately, I presently have no extra cycles to correct the problem.</p>
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		<title>Comment on About by scott</title>
		<link>http://www.stevekamerman.com/about/comment-page-1/#comment-12973</link>
		<dc:creator>scott</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Jan 2012 23:43:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.stevekamerman.com/?page_id=2#comment-12973</guid>
		<description>I could really use that tech you have on the mouse. I would like to make a preamp and while there are several on the net I am not sure a chip will change volume better than a alps pot. I would like to have an lcd display an remote control both of which i can buy. i just can&#039;t get how to make the disiplay work. I am not a total idiot i have built two 300b tube amps that sound great it just would be nice to have some volume control. Any ideas?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I could really use that tech you have on the mouse. I would like to make a preamp and while there are several on the net I am not sure a chip will change volume better than a alps pot. I would like to have an lcd display an remote control both of which i can buy. i just can&#8217;t get how to make the disiplay work. I am not a total idiot i have built two 300b tube amps that sound great it just would be nice to have some volume control. Any ideas?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Comment on About by Benjamin</title>
		<link>http://www.stevekamerman.com/about/comment-page-1/#comment-12771</link>
		<dc:creator>Benjamin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 03 Jan 2012 10:13:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.stevekamerman.com/?page_id=2#comment-12771</guid>
		<description>Hi Steve,
I am trying to use your Piwik Mobile Analytics plug in but it seems it is not compatible with Piwik 1.6...
Am I doing something wrong or is it a known issue? If it is known, do you have any fix?

Thanks a bunch!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Steve,<br />
I am trying to use your Piwik Mobile Analytics plug in but it seems it is not compatible with Piwik 1.6&#8230;<br />
Am I doing something wrong or is it a known issue? If it is known, do you have any fix?</p>
<p>Thanks a bunch!</p>
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		<title>Comment on Ignore break ( &lt;br /&gt; ) tags with CSS by Aleksey</title>
		<link>http://www.stevekamerman.com/2006/06/ignore-break-br-tags-with-css/comment-page-1/#comment-11532</link>
		<dc:creator>Aleksey</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 16 Dec 2011 08:19:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.teratechnologies.net/stevekamerman/index.php?entry=entry060606-224241#comment-11532</guid>
		<description>Thanks! It helped for me. But &lt;code&gt;code br{line-height: 0px;}&lt;/code&gt; doesn&#039;t work at my page.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks! It helped for me. But</p>
<div class="codecolorer-container text geshi" style="overflow:auto;white-space:nowrap;border:1px solid #9F9F9F;width:435px;"><div class="text codecolorer" style="padding:5px;font:normal 12px/1.4em Monaco, Lucida Console, monospace;white-space:nowrap">code br{line-height: 0px;}</div></div>
<p>doesn&#8217;t work at my page.</p>
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